Sunday, June 24, 2012

Vigan, Ilocos Sur - The Living Museum


Along the western coast of northern Luzon in the Philippines the living museum that is Ilocos Sur (South) displays the strong presence of its past. 


I stood in wonder as the theater of time with aged lamp posts, cobble stoned streets, horse carriages, and ancestral buildings in varying Spanish-Mexican-Chinese architectural designs for background unfolded the drama of its rich history, heritage and culture.   


It was a unique experience hosted by a seasoned province that seemed to be trapped in a pocket of a time gone by. If one of your wishes is to be transported back to a glorious era, Ilocos Sur will be more than happy to walk you through it.

The Highlights of Ilocos Sur

VIVA VIGAN! (Capital city of Ilocos Sur) – UNESCO World Heritage Site
For a very old settlement, thriving long before it was even established in the 16th century, I found Vigan to be vivacious. Vigan is the country’s only city to be inscribed in 1999 on the list of UNESCO World Heritage sites.  The inscription is justified by UNESCO as “representation of a unique fusion of Asian building design and construction with European colonial architecture and planning. Vigan is an exceptionally intact and well preserved example of a European trading town in East and South-East Asia.” Vigan has a strong European ambience due to the centuries of being under the Spanish rule. Mexican architecture and other ancient foreign influences like the Japanese, Chinese, and Malay are also found throughout the city in perfect compromise with the new age. 

St. Paul’s Cathedral or Vigan Cathedral

Originally a chapel of wood and thatch was built in 1574 by order of Spanish conquistador and founder Juan de Salcedo, but later on after a few reconstructions by order and by necessity the cathedral’s cornerstone was laid in the beginning of 1790 by the Augustinians. 






A landmark built to enthrall with its design as well as to (with the ingenious modifications of the Ilocanos the natives of this province) withstand earthquakes. Fu (Lion) dogs guarding the outermost doors suggest that the strong Chinese influence remain. At a distance of 10 meters south of the cathedral its belfry stands 25 meters high.






Bantay Church and Bell Tower

Built in 1590, Bantay Church features a neo-gothic facade incorporating the distinct Vigan earthquake baroque in its architecture built to withstand the magnitudes of this destructive natural force.


“Bantay” (meaning to keep watch or lookout) this bell tower sits on a hill witness to everything for its panoramic view of Ilocos Sur. It played its part in history when it served as watch tower, part of the city’s defense to help alert against potential threats and enemies.

Sta. Maria Church
This centuries old church was used as a fortress at the height of Philippine Revolution in 1896 against the Spaniards and again during World War II.  It is a national landmark and also a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1993.  A massive structure having 2 huge columns that flank the facade, adding to its grandeur are 82 steps to reach the church and brickwork flaunting a warm red exterior.

Plaza Burgos and Plaza Salcedo
Named after a martyr-priest and Spanish conquistador-founder respectively the 2 Plazas are center to all the action and gatherings of different types.  Nearby are food stalls galore selling an assortment of native delicacies and horse drawn carriages lined by the hundreds.

Calle Crisologo
The most famous street in Vigan for its old world feel where every step forward is a step back in time. Replete with Spanish style houses with ancient tile roofs, massive hardwood floors, banisters and railings that evoke the former era when its people lived prosperously due to the Manila-Acapulco maritime trade.  Calle Crisologo also showcase the varying Spanish-Mexican-Chinese architectural styles imbibed in the culture. Souvenir shops line the streets and Filipino hospitality at its best this street is a blast from the past.

Other Worthy Attractions in Ilocos Sur
Visit the Burgos National Museum and Crisologo Museum for some interesting memorabilia, Ilocano artifacts and ethnic arts. Go hands-on pottery making at “Paburnayan” or Pottery Factories. Baluarte is a must-see petting zoo from ducks to ostriches, pint-sized horses, camels and tigers.   The best way to see the sights in Ilocos Sur especially Vigan is to ride the horse-drawn carriages which could be hired for $4 USD per hour.


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When to Go:
The summer months of March-May are best times to go especially during the Holy week to see antique and life-sized statues on elaborately designed carrozas (large luxurious carriages) on parade.

How to Get There:
A scenic bus route from Manila to Vigan, Ilocos Sur could take around 8 hours
Air-conditioned Bus Lines with daily trips to Vigan are:
Philippine Rabbit Bus Lines: Tel. +632- 734-9838, 734-9836
Dominion Bus Line: Tel. +632- 731-4180, 741-4146
Partas Bus Company: Tel. +632 725-7303, 724-9820

By Air:
Manila to Laoag International Airport via domestic airlines could take around an hour
Philippine Airlines
Tel: +63-2-855-8888
Cebu Pacific
www.cebupacific.com.ph
Tel: +63-2-70-20-888

Vigan City is 2 hours away from Laoag, from the Laoag International Airport ride a jeep or tricycle going to town and request to be dropped off at bus terminal heading to Vigan.

Accommodations:
Gordion Hotel
V.Delos Reyes corner Salcedo Street, Vigan, Ilocos Sur
Tel. +63-77-722-2526
Grandpa’s Inn
Bonifacio Street, corner Quirino Boulevard, Vigan, Ilocos Sur
+63-77-722-2118
Villa Angela Heritage House
Quirino Boulevard, Vigan, Ilocos Sur
+63-77-722-2914



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